見證永垂不朽的黃金工藝 | WITNESSING ANCIENT GOLDSMITHING TECHNIQUES

中國古代金工技術擁有恆久歷史,古代工匠對作品精雕細琢,追求精益求精,精湛工藝令人嘆為觀止。L’ÉCOLE珠寶藝術學院亞太區分校在香港主辦第三場展覽 ──「黃金的藝術:三千年華夏珍藏展」,帶領我們一同探索令人讚歎不已的金工技術。L’ÉCOLE將首次以「精湛工藝」為主題,展出精選自夢蝶軒藏品的藝術傑作,勾勒出中國三千年來的黃金工藝。

Shedding light on the rich history and craftsmanship of ancient Chinese goldsmithing, L’ÉCOLE Asia Pacific reveals some of the fascinating goldsmithing techniques with its third exhibition, “The Art of Gold, 3000 Years of Chinese Treasures”. The exhibition features masterpieces from the Mengdiexuan Collection, showcasing 3000 years of Chinese gold craftsmanship, and will be L’ÉCOLE’s inaugural exhibition dedicated to Savoir-Faire (craftsmanship).

L’ÉCOLE珠寶藝術學院亞太區董事總經理Élise Gonnet-Pon女士指出:「我們很榮幸能夠在L’ÉCOLE香港的永久校舍,舉行首個以『精湛工藝』為主題的展覽。夢蝶軒與L’ÉCOLE同樣將學術研究視作藝術收藏的基礎,認為藉著了解當中的文化和歷史背景,可以更懂得欣賞珠寶製作從古至今的悠久承傳,以及珠寶作品美不勝收的迷人魅力。」

“We are delighted to have the honor of hosting L’ÉCOLE’s first Savoir-Faire exhibition at our permanent campus in Hong Kong,” said Ms. Élise Gonnet-Pon, Managing Director of L’ÉCOLE Asia Pacific, School of Jewelry Arts. “Both Mengdiexuan and L’ÉCOLE share the vision that academic research is the foundation of art collecting, and by understanding the cultural and historical context, one is able to have a more meaningful appreciation of the legacy of jewelry-making until present times and of the exceptional beauty of the creations.”

瑞獸金簪首,公元14至16世紀 ​ ​
Gold hairpin with auspicious animal design, 14th to 16th century

四馬投唐圖金满冠,明代,1368-1644 ​ ​
Hairpin with figures design, Ming Dynasty, 1368-1644

展覽將展出55件珍稀瑰麗的珠寶金器,包括項飾、耳飾、釵簪、手鐲、胸針及帶牌等飾品,帶領觀者跨越時空的旅程,走訪從商代至清朝期間的中原、歐亞草原、蒙古及喜瑪拉雅地區,了解華夏文明的金工技術。

A selection of 55 extraordinary gold jewelry pieces and ornaments, including precious necklaces, earrings, hairpins, bracelets, brooches and belt plaques will be showcased, and will take visitors on a journey across central China, the Steppes, the Mongolian and the Himalayan regions from the Shang to the Qing Dynasties.

夢蝶軒藏品收藏家盧茵茵女士說道:「通過學術研究追求知識交流,並能夠與學者及藝術愛好者分享,一直是我們收藏的理念。我們對L’ÉCOLE珠寶藝術學院,及由L’ÉCOLE亞太區分校董事總經理Élise Gonnet-Pon帶領的團隊致以衷心謝意,感謝這次難能可貴的機會及合作統籌是次盛大的展覽。」

“Pursuit of intellectual exchange through academic research and sharing of appreciation with scholars and art enthusiasts alike has always been our collecting philosophy,” said Ms. Betty Lo, collector of the Mengdiexuan Collection. “We express our most sincere thanks to L’ÉCOLE and its most wonderful team led by Élise Gonnet-Pon for this opportunity and for mounting this very impressive exhibition.”

嵌寶石琉璃硨磲金梳背,公元7至8世紀 ​ ​
Gold comb top with gem, glass and shell inlays, 8th century

金胸飾,公元前4至3世紀​
Gold neck ornament or pectoral, 4th to 3rd century BCE

夢蝶軒這些源遠流長的工藝傑作歷經三千年的傳承,呈現中國古代四種主要的金工技術 ── 錘鍱與鏨刻、鑄造、珠化、金絲與纍絲。當中技術已隨著歲月演變,觀者可透過今次展覽一睹另一個時空、珍罕非凡的古代金工造詣。

Spanning three millennia, the historical masterpieces of Mengdiexuan Collection will illustrate four major techniques of goldsmithing used in ancient China: hammering and chasing, casting, wire and filigree, and granulation. While these techniques have evolved over the years, visitors will have the opportunity to see firsthand the rare and exceptional craftsmanship from ancient goldsmiths.

蝙蝠趕珠龍金束髻冠,公元15至17世紀 (明代,1368-1644)​
Gold hair bun ornament with bat and dragon decorations, 15th to 17th century (Ming Dynasty, 1368-1644)

L’ÉCOLE除了透視珠寶製作的精湛工藝和珠寶藝術史,亦經常從科學和寶石學的角度探索珠寶世界。現職L’ÉCOLE珠寶藝術學院科學總監的寶石學家 Olivier Segura先生解釋說:「自人類懂得駕馭冶金魔法以來,黃金成為無數偉大古文明爭逐的對象,一直是最珍貴和具象徵意涵的物料之一。但將黃金與人類祭祀神祇的傳統扯上關係的,卻非因其璀璨奪目的華彩或令人神往的迷人魅力,而是它獨有的一些特性。」他亦在展覽場刊中,暢談如何從化學家、礦物學、地質學家及珠寶匠的角度來欣賞黃金。

In addition to the angles of Savoir-Faire and art history, L’ÉCOLE always offers a scientific and gemological perspective towards jewelry. “Sought-after by many civilizations since mankind knew how to master the secrets of metals, gold has always been one of the most precious and symbolic materials. However, more than its color, its brilliance, its powerful and almost irresistible fascination, the unique properties of gold made it the favorite metal of humankind to adorn its Gods,” explained Mr. Olivier Segura, Gemologist and Scientific Director at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts. He also elaborates on how we can appreciate gold in its chemical, mineralogical, geological and jewelry-making aspects on the exhibition catalog.

卧鹿形金飾牌,公元前6至5世紀​
Recumbent stag ornament, 6th to 5th century BCE

駱駝紋金牌飾,公元前2至1世紀​
Gold camel-design belt and ornamental plaque, 2nd to 1st century BCE

公眾如欲希望進一步瞭解黃金的文化意義,可以修讀L’ÉCOLE亞太區分校開辦的啟蒙課程「珠寶世界之旅」,又或是介紹珠寶藝術史的課程「金質與珠寶:從古代到文藝復興時期的皇室珠寶」,全情投入珠寶藝術歷史的精髓。兩項課程的導師將與學員分享引人入勝的故事,引領學員展開歷史之旅,跨越無數個世紀和人類文明,探索珠寶如何隨著時間演變,了解珠寶的象徵意義及用途。

For those keen to go further to discover the cultural significance of gold will have the opportunity to take classes including: an introductory class, “Around the World in Jewelry” and an Art History of Jewelry class, “Gold and Jewelry, from Antiquity to the Renaissance Princes” which will immerse students into the very essence of jewelry history. The lecturers of both classes will share stories that will send students on a voyage through centuries and civilizations where they will discover how jewelry has evolved through the ages, uses and symbolism.

是次展覽由香港中文大學文物館副館長許曉東教授及博士後研究員童宇博士協助策展,並將於*2020年12月9日至2021年3月28日舉行,免費開放予公眾參觀。展覽更設有粵語、英語及普通話導賞團,有意參加者可以在網上預先登記。展覽的相關短片和數碼資料將陸續上載於L’ÉCOLE網站的電子圖書館及社交媒體,可讓世界各地人士有機會加深了解這些與眾不同的工藝傑作,以及背後的精湛金工技術。

L’ÉCOLE Asia Pacific’s third exhibition was curated with the support of Professor Xu Xiaodong, Associate Director of the Art Museum, The Chinese University of Hong Kong and Dr. Tong Yu, Sam, Postdoctoral Fellow at the Art Museum, The Chinese University of Hong Kong. The free-of-admission exhibition will be open to the public from *December 9, 2020 to March 28, 2021 with guided tours available in English, Cantonese and Mandarin. Online pre-registration is recommended. Videos and digital materials related to the exhibition will also be available on L’ÉCOLE’s website e-library and social media to enable people around the world to have the chance to understand more about these extraordinary artifacts and the goldsmithing techniques behind.

「黃金的藝術:三千年華夏珍藏展」“The Art of Gold, 3000 Years of Chinese Treasures”​
*Date: 2020.12.9 – 2021.3.28​
Time: Monday – Sunday, 13:00 – 19:00​
Venue: L’ÉCOLE珠寶藝術學院亞太區分校​
香港九龍尖沙咀梳士巴利道18號K11 MUSEA 五樓510A室​
L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts​
Unit 510A, 5F, K11 MUSEA, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong​

*為確保展覽參觀者的健康和安全,L’ÉCOLE亞太區分校將參照政府康文署轄下博物館的展覽安排,延後「黃金的藝術:三千年華夏珍藏展」的開幕日期,直至另行通知。請參閱L’ÉCOLE亞太區分校的網站和社交媒體上的最新消息。​
*For the health and safety of visitors, L’ÉCOLE follows the latest arrangements of the museums managed by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department of the Hong Kong SAR Government. The exhibition opening of “The Art of Gold, 3000 Years of Chinese Treasures” will be postponed until further notice. The latest information will be updated on L’ÉCOLE Asia Pacific’s website and social media channels. ​
https://www.lecolevancleefarpels.com/hk

圖片由L’ÉCOLE 珠寶藝術學院提供​
Photo courtesy of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts

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